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Trail: Barcelona


ProofOfMyExistence OutsideSomeplace

some places

net suggested


Inopia Classic Bar, Tamarit 104; (34-93) 424-5231;

Irati, Cardenal Casanyes 17; (34-93) 302-3084.

Mamacafé, Doctor Dou 10; (34-93) 301-2940.

Origen 99.9%, four locations;

Rossell, Tamarit 109; (34-93) 424-1505.

La Cova Fumada, Baluard 56; (34-93) 221-4061. Hidden in the wafer-thin buildings of Barceloneta, La Cova Fumada is a slice of old-school Catalonia with a kitchen that produces workingmen’s classics like butifarra sausage, bombas (potato and meat croquettes) and cod in myriad forms.


Castañer, Mestre Nicolau 23; (34-93) 414-2428;

La Boqueria, Plaça de la Boqueria; (34-93) 318-2584; Closed Sundays.

Nubius, Espaseria 7; (34-93) 319-1006; and Avinyó 21; (34-93) 304-2420; The shop embroiders T-shirts and button-downs with images like a skyscraper wrapped in alien tentacles.

Ras, Doctor Dou 10; (34-93) 412-7199; It features design books and magazines and has a gallery for the work of art-minded architects.

Best Money-Saving Tip

Buy a two-to-five-day Barcelona Card (23 to 34 euros) online ( and get a 10-percent discount on the card, which grants free or discounted entry to many museums and attractions, and, perhaps more important, offers unlimited free travel on virtually all of the city’s public transport, including the airport train.

Also make sure you take a day trip from Barcelona to Tarragona (about 100km south of Barcelona). It’s this gorgeous city on the coast with ancient Roman ruins (Augustus used to summer here). At the end of La Rambla Nuova they have this stretch of coast they call the Mediterranean’s balcony because of the absolutely breathtaking views

Northward, there’s Figueres, home of Salvador Dali. The town itself isn’t much to behold, but I’ve definitely got my sights set on hitting up the Teatro/Museu Dali over there. It’s supposed to be as surreal as his paintings.
I’m dining at Les quinzenity restaurant at the Placa Reial, the one with the ridiculously long line in front because of the cheap but good food.

Have you had any churros con crema y chocolate? This is the best pastry I’ve ever had.... First they deep fry a 6 inch churro that has a 2.5 inch diameter. After it cools down, they inject it with vanilla custard, then submerge the thing in melted chocolate. When the chocolate cools and dries, it is ready to eat.